Showing posts with label Srinagar. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Srinagar. Show all posts

Saturday, June 26, 2010

My Last Evening in Srinagar, Kashmir

The reason why I wasn’t writing about my last night in Srinagar, is the fact that I don’t want to recall it. I’m re-living my journey through my travelogue and every time I write it, a part of me is found travelling in the woods and mountains of Kashmir. I don’t want my journey to end this time, through my travelogue, but I have new things to write about too. So what makes me write this today? The sudden mood swing! Damn, I feel the same today, like I felt on the last night in Srinagar – yes, no matter how weird that sounds, the mood is what made me write this today. Crazy whims, I wonder!

May 18, 2010. 3.30pm: It was raining heavily the entire day in Srinagar and since I was aware of the last day, my wander lust just didn’t seem to have got enough of the place. I had read of Rozabal in one of the books by Osho and was curious to visit the shrine in the downtown Srinagar. Rozabal is a shrine in Srinagar where Jesus Christ is believed to have been buried. It is believed that Jesus Christ survived the crucifixion and came to Kashmir, India, where he lived last years of his life and finally died in Srinagar, where he is believed to have been buried and have even left a bloodline in that region. When a friend of mine told me about the place and its directions the same morning, my curiosity was eating me up from within. I was told by many locals that it isn’t a safe place to go, but I blamed my itchy feet and went on to explore. The place seemed a lot difficult to find at first and when I did, it wasn’t much of a pleasant experience. I found kids, barely 8 years old, who were agitated to see me trespass their “territory”. I saw the shrine, closely and wondered whether all those stories about Jesus living in India were true. I made up my mind to research over it later. I read what is written on a board just above the shrine. Photography was strictly not allowed. I do not remember the lines as they are, but it did mean something that was sure to ignite fires of controversies. I would have to read a book and research more deeply to write anything about Rozabal. Many books like The Rozabal Line and The Lost Years of Jesus explain many related stories. I was just fulfilled enough to have been able to visit the most mysterious place known to me and moved on carrying a thousand thoughts in my mind.

May 18, 2010. 5.30pm: The typical woman inside me was yelling by now and wanted to make the most of shopping in Kashmir! It was undoubtedly the most beautiful evening of all –yes, I was being partial since it was my last evening by the Boulevard. The Dal Gate Road was full of street hawkers selling Kashmiri handicrafts made of Papier Mache. Every single artefact stands out with its vibrant explosion of Indian hues and intricate Mughal designs. I loved walking down the road aimlessly while the rest of the world around me continued to run. The sun didn’t wait to set, the shikaras didn’t stop floating and the shops didn’t stop selling. The world moved on every second as I walked aimlessly on the road, exploring each shop and trying to touch everything that caught my eye! I shopped like a total shopaholic with full-on bargaining power! The still waters of Dal Lake had began to reflect the street lights around, the house boats had began to gear up for another candle-lit dinner for the evening, the shikaras were carrying newly arrived tourists to their reserved house boats, as the sky turned dark. And I knew, as I leave, someone else like me would come here, explore the place, indulge in the slowness, ride horses up to 14,000 feet, listen to the sound of waters that the oar of shikara pushes, travel the less travelled roads that lead to Himalayas, discover true romance in the Mughal Gardens, watch the green carpets of Gulmarg, and simply live a part of their lives in the land of Kashmir.


I did not know whether the Kashmir euphoria was rising up within me or was the sadness of saying a final goodbye, faded my euphoria of the place. Whatever it would have been, it sure was one beautiful sad evening. I discovered that this place had moved me, in a way that I could never be the same again. I wanted to live the moment forever and never wanted to go back to where I belonged. Kashmir is a powerful beauty and it sure had cast a spell on me. It made me think beyond the commercial world. The spell it put on me had a name and I called it the spell of simplicity. I wanted to surrender myself to the euphoric Kashmir. I am still under the same spell and living in the afterglow.

Creative Commons LicenseAV's Avilicious by Avanika Mote is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-No Derivative Works 2.5 India License.














Tuesday, May 25, 2010

KASHMIR EUPHORIA - Part One





The moment I saw the first view of Kashmir valley, I had decided to write a travelogue of this journey to heaven. I tried writing it on my computer at first, but the words wouldn’t let me…and I switched to a journal and a pen. The land of Kashmir is as pure as a new born baby and it did not deserve the mechanical writing on a computer. I have no clue where to start from, the day one, the shikara on the Dal lake, the mesmerizing Kashmir-ki-Vaadiya, the playful waters of Lidder or my last night in Kashmir. All I know is that this place had moved me, struck me in a way that I could never come back to what I used to be, as I found my ends here.


The journey on way to Srinagar has its own charm, with sadhus and Shiva temples, on the roadside, hidden under the giant mountains, and the Chenab River flowing to meet her sea, giving a lively company all the way. I reached Srinagar in the evening, right at the dusk. This city shows you how the beauty and the beast can co-exist, at a time. You can see the serenity of Dal Lake reflecting the mountains that surround her on the left, and the fire in the eyes of the Indian armed forces on the right, every 100 meters, doing their best to protect the disputed province.


It was a rare rainy day in Srinagar, and I was taking a visit to all the Mughal Gardens right on the first day. The sound of water in those endless cascades, as they hurl down the aisle, the smell of red roses and the touch of bare feet on the fresh grasslands that touch infinity, did take me into a world called heaven. With 7 terraces and a stone channel for the running water in the centre, set in the backdrop of Pirpanjal and Zabarwan mountains, Nishat Bagh the Boulevard Road is the largest of all the Mughal Gardens and was built by Asif Khan, the elder brother of Noor Jehan. One can see the long stretches of land covered with carpets of greenery and the beautiful Dal lake right in front of the bountiful of flowers in the Nishat Bagh. The illimitable stretches of green grass and the watercourse down the cascades overlooking the Dal Lake make this the Garden of Pleasure. The Shalimar Bagh, an abode of love, a splendid garden that was built by Emperor Jehangir for his loving wife, Noor Jehan is undeniably romantic and undoubtedly a visual delight.


The clouds had invaded the sky high mountains and it had started drizzling again when I thought of cruising in the Dal Lake by the shikara. I really cannot think of an adjective to describe the experience of being in a shikara. Every time the oar pushes the water back, the sound of silence and its tranquility, asks you to slow down, slow down and indulge in the depths of silence. I took a 2-hour cruise in shikara and that allowed me to explore the floating gardens and small shops inside the Dal Lake. It still amazes me, to think of a whole new floating world inside the Dal Lake!



Avanika.


Creative Commons License
AV's Avilicious by Avanika Mote is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-No Derivative Works 2.5 India License.

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